As you may have seen in an earlier post, I had made an Arduino-based remote intervalometer for my EOS camera, with the intention of making a time-lapse of stars and hopefully the Milky Way rotating over the Pacific Ocean. I had gotten the inspiration for it when reviewing some exposure bracketing I had done when making some still images. When quickly reviewing the images it looked almost like a movie, so I adjusted the brightness and contrast of the images, and strung them together as a video proof of concept:
Over the holidays I got a chance to try it for real. There were a few changes I wanted to make to the intervalomenter to prepare. To implement these changes I needed to add a rotary encoder with a push-button. The initial design enables changing of intervalometer settings while it was running, but that would have required three interrupts, and the Arduino Nano has only two. So instead, I tied the push-button to one of the interrupts and used it cycle through four states. The interrupt routine still needs some debouncing, as it's currently pretty easy to accidentally skip a state.
Here are the states:
1) Run:
Periodically trigger a shutter release while displaying the mode and time to trigger on the LED display.
2) Change operational mode:
A: Interval in seconds and immediate shutter release.
B: Interval in seconds and delayed shutter release.
C: Interval in minutes and immediate shutter release.
D: Interval in minutes and delayed shutter release.
3) Adjust the interval from 1 to 99 seconds or minutes.
4) Adjust the duty cycle of the display from full-on to full-off in increments of 10%.
All of these worked fine, except for the fourth. I thought this feature would be helpful because the display was so bright and got so warm, I was concerned that it would drain the intervalometer battery before the camera battery was drained. It turned out that the display was just as warm with the LEDs disabled. Since this feature didn't do what I had intended, I ended up just unplugging the power from the display, once the intervalometer was started.
I found that an interval of 30 seconds would look pretty good. And, with a 10 second exposure and the 15 seconds it takes for the camera to process the image, it's quite possible. However, I found that when doing time exposures, the camera's battery lasts only between 150 and 180 images, and that makes a video that's only five or six seconds long, covering only 90 minutes of real time at most. So until I can set up an external power supply for the camera, I've set the interval to 60 seconds and made the video with 2 frames for each image, or 15 rather than 30 frames per second.
I used the following camera settings:
Sensor/Lens combination: Crop/12mm
Aperture: f2.8
Exposure: 10 Seconds
ISO: 12800
Image Size: S2 1920 x 1280
Display: Min brightness to save energy.
Long Exposure Noise Reduction: Enabled
I made the video in Kdenlive by selecting "Project", "Import Slide Show Clip", importing the still images, then setting "Frame Duration" to "00:00:00,2".
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